Wednesday, May 27, 2015

To Naxos

Breaking news.... Reuters / AAP


A 67 year old Australian man was today charged with the aggravated assault of 6 tourists on the Greek Island of Santorini. It is alleged that the man first approached a lone Korean tourist couple as they posed for a photograph on the face of the caldera. It is alleged that he took the selfie stick from the male tourist and removed the iPhone returning it to the female tourist... He then extended the stick to its maximum length before violently wrapping the stick around the neck of the male tourist.. It is further alleged that he then proceeded to repeat his offence on two further occasions before approaching a large group of Japanese tourists who restrained him before he could offend further. Observers reported that Greek police were reluctant to become involved in the case but decided to proceed with the laying of charges only after strong pressure was applied by the island's wedding service industry. There has been severe criticism of the general tourist population that observed the assaults for their failure to intervene. One Korean observer was quoted as saying... "They just stood there clapping". The representatives of the island's booming wedding industry have offered the victims free wedding packages and replacement selfie sticks... It is understood that the victims have declined the offer of replacement selfie sticks.... At the hastily arranged court hearing the magistrate recorded no conviction against the man on the grounds of extreme and prolonged provocation... He was escorted to the wharf and summarily deported to Naxos.

The end

 

Oia

The guide arrives... Not a van... Not a fan... A tight fit for two generously proportioned penguins and their two not so generously proportioned friends... The guide... A lovely young 30 something local mother... Experienced driver... China drivers a worry she says.. Ignore road signs she says... You know why she says... In China the signs are painted on the roads she says... Oh... China driver... Oh... China driver... punctuates the commentary on our tour..


11000 locals... Millions of visitors... Japanese and Koreans during the winter.. They come for photographs... For weddings she says... along the island towards Oira... Stop at photo opportunity after photo opportunity... Oh... China driver....

Meet me.. One hour and half.. She says ... You walk along there slowly she says....

Wow... Wow... Wow... The Santorini that has forced the ordered relocation of countless trillions of unfortunate electrons assigned digital camera duties by the mistress of the universe rolls out before us.. We proceed without regard to the well being of their peers that accompany us..






















Beautiful accommodations clothe the face of the caldera in Oia... Truly beautiful places... Truly magnificent vistas... Impressive private pools adorned with financially well endowed patrons cling to the face of the caldera... The paved walkways are spotless... The shops and galleries manicured... White... White... Greek blue.... White... White... Greek blue... We were impressed with the caldera around our accommodations... It does not compare with the caldera at Oia....


Pass art galleries that claim to be the most famous in the world... Pass an open air wedding chapel... Not a sacred place... Just a beautiful spot for the Japanese and Koreans to exchange their wedding vows... It displays it's tourist credentials... Trip advisor.. The travel channel.... New York weddings magazine.... Never seen that before.... Shoot from the hip... A wedding couple walk by...




Stroll past some of the real locals...







We are impressed with the tourist tsars of Santorini... The culture is appropriate... Due recognition given to the value of tourist... Tourists rich and poor... Tourists Old and young... All given a smile... All given services that make them feel their visit worthwhile...


We have enjoyed Santorini... Where will see eat tonight?...

Wander out from the hotel... The selfie sticks still being raised.. Lowered... Raised again... Smiled at.... Penguin number two feels agitated...


Find a nice Greek restraurant..... The Greek waiter greets us ... Perfect English... Where are you from in Australia he says ... John says Brisbane... The waiter says... Ah Brisvegas... With a smile be says... You are not bogans from logan.... I live in Logan when I was in Australia.




Strolling the Caldera...

Penguin number one rises early... She photographs the caldera... No one in sight... The tourists still sleeping... The views still stunning... The shops neat.. The lanes narrow... The environment spotless... She returns... Cappuccinos that taste like cappuccino... The first in Greece...


The wind has enjoyed it's restlessness... It continues to rush around.. It tips hats from the heads of the unprepared ... It causes ladies to clutch their knees to ensure their dresses do not rise to unacceptable heights.

We approach the ticket booth at the cable car.... We observe a former patron emerge.. She is crying... Penguin number one reassures us all... It will be fine... No problems... The wind howls... She looks less confident than a minute earlier... We populate the cable car... Down we go... Penguin number one is quiet... Sits still... Refuses to change seats... Fantastic view... Gentle descent... Over the donkey paths... On to the old port... The wind has been left behind in the caldera...







 



Watch the tour ship patrons come ashore... Interact with the delightful store holders... Without exception they are cheerful, playful and polite... Visit the donkey station... feel sorry for the poor creatures... Understand that they are breadwinners for the families of their minders....














The return value car ride causes no consternation... Be absolutely surprised.... Stop at a restraurant... Read the two boards out the front... One board... Takeaway menu.... The other board... The in-house menu ... They look similar... The girl rushes out... The takeaway menu is for free delivery to your hotel.... Much cheaper than in-house she says .... I still don't understand! - we wander on to introduce John and Merie to the culinary excellence of a Pita wrapped Gyros...

Tourists abound... Preoccupied with the sights.. Preoccupied with their selfie sticks... Cuddle... Look at the stick... Cuddle... Raise the selfie stick again... Smile... Lose concentration... Tap the passer-by with the stick... Sorry... Sorry... Sorry... It's ok. It's ok... It's ok... Another view... Raise the self stick...

The tourists wander past shop after shop... They are greeted by smiles and good days from the vendors... All in good cheer... Their pressure present but restrained.. The tourists enjoy the shops... Enjoy the views... Enjoy the sensation of the caldera.. Their concentration waivers... Gentle collisions occurs... Sorry... Sorry... Sorry... It's ok. It's ok... It's ok... Everyone happy.




The wind continues to exercise its dominion over the caldera... As our siesta proceeds we listen to it having its way with the world around us... We listen to the clatter... clatter.. the clatter of cases fitted with wheels ill-equipped to deal stone inlaid footpath of Greece... The clatter of cases will be the fourth dimension of our memories of Greece...








The financial scars of last night's dining has made the travellers a little more cautious... avoid candidates in the cliff face... Turn away from the ridge... A delightful Italian experience...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Towards Santorini

You are on holidays you idiot... What on earth poceesed you to book a 6:30 flight... Stagger out of bed at 4:30... Taxi arrives at 5:00... You have not paid for your bags... Off course we have... No you haven't... 60 euros please... Security... Security... More security... The antipodeans start to realise that Syria is not that far away from here....

To Athens... More security... More security... Wait.. Wait... John and Merie arrive... Off to Santorini....

Stagger out of the airport... Bags clatter over the stone paved walkways... Where are you going... Atlantis hotel... Come with me... I am Santorini luxury transport... You too dear... No... 7 euros... We are loaded up and off into town ... Oh dear... This does not look good... Untidy... Messy... Unkempt... Approach hotel through the car park.. Untidy... Messy... Large garbage skips abound... Hotel over there says the driver... I hand him twenty... Wait for the change... Unfortunately he must have been too busy to spend time returning change for in a flash he was off... Head to hotel... The cases clatter... Clatter... Clatter.. Into the front door... Surprise.. Surprise.. The hotel is neat... Nice... marble everywhere... Old but renovated... White... White... White... The view of the lounge stunning..













Head out of hotel... Even more of a surprise... The hotel fronts the caldera... We explore... The weather nice... A gentle breeze... The lanes of the caldera filed with shops and restraurants and views... The views fantastic... The mood of the tourists... Positive... Excited... The tourists plentiful... The tourist population distribution more representative of the younger generations than was the case in Symi or Rhodes.. Make a collective decision to relax and enjoy our three days here...




 




Comply with our resolution by completing the compulsory siesta.. Onto the caldera again... Stroll... Views after view... Look down to the old port.. Resolve to take a cable car ride down the 300 metre vertical descent to the port rather impose our obesity on the backs of the local donkeys....





The breeze has decided that it has had enough of wafting around... It is bored... It turns itself into gentle wind... A restaurant on the face of the caldera is selected ... The gentle wind will add to the enjoyment of the view and the cuisine... As is our way... We over order... Pita and tibilzi... Oven baked Moussaka... Linguine... Wine... Wine... The wind gets bored... It becomes excited.. It becomes more excited... The bill is ordered... The bill is received... The patrons are shocked... They resolve to be more careful in future selections.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Friday, May 22, 2015

The first thing you should do in Rhodes.....

Penguin number two has always loved imax.... The German tourists tell us we must see the 9D movie called "the Throne of Helios"... It is good he says... It is good he says... Very good he says... You must go he says...


He is right.... He is absolutely right.... An 18 minute experience... The history and mythology of Rhodes... Just 10 euros... Welcome... How did you hear about us... Where are you from... We are ushered into the tiny theatre... Capacity might be 30... Into aircraft seats complete with seat belt... you hold your hands on the handles... You put on 3D glasses... We try to tighten the seat belt... Don't bother he says.. This is an experience not Disneyland...




The seats recline... The movie starts... An Animation... In the way of 3D animations.... startling... The seats move... The animation takes us on a flight over the island... As the flight banks the seats tip towards the vertical... Will the seat belt hold... Off course it will... The mythology of Helios.... The island grows out of the sea... The fly through approaches the sea... We are sprayed with a mist of water... We submerge.. The seat rumbles... Bubbles float through the theatre... We surface... The wind blows... We fly though vegetation... We flick past a bush.... A puff of air hits us... There is a sharp tap to the back of the seat... We pass a snake... It lunges... Again the air... Again the seat moves... Fantastic... Fantastic... Enjoyment mixed with a great overview of the history and mythology of Rhodes... They claim 9D... 3 dimension of visible space... Sound.. Wind.. Rain.. Three dimensions of seat movement - makes 9 dimensions... Visitors should make this their first activity on arrival in Rhodes... Well perhaps not the first... The first would be some Greek food at Cafe Nimmos at Gate Akandia into the old town..


We wander back through the old town... It is a little windy today... A young female stall attendant dons a thin black chiffon overblouse.. The customers wander by.... They pass without stopping... She adjusts quickly... Chiffon is parted.. The assets must be displayed even if the weather deems it inappropriate.... Sad... Sad... Sad.

On through the old town.. Relics of the 15th century...

Past the kids playing soccer in the ruins of the old church... The floor smooth... The boundaries contained... Save for the bases of the long since crumbled columns... A perfect stadia...

The tobacco pushers... Promoting electronic cigarettes... Success rate is surprising



Young Greek girls wander past us... Do they really understand English.. Surely not... They look like nice girls... Nice girls that understand English do not write these things on their chests.... Love the tee-shirt on the 40 something generously sized girl... "I don't do fashion - I am fashion ".. Beautiful... Beautiful..

Observe the observers... Coffee watchers flanked by the spruikers....



Pass one of the locals... Felines dominate


Past the artist shops... Penguin number one notices everyone...


Back to cava d'oro.. Pass the local school.. Old.. Old.. The Greek flag flys...




Cafe Nimmos entertains us again ... Feeds us... Delights us... Penguin number one manages to control herself... She refrains from participating in spruiking duties... She has already been successful... The israelis that resisted her last night have been seduced to return this evening.... We overhear them talking to the spruiker at the end of their meal... Give me a number they say... 24... Give me another number... 39... They rise from the table... Pay the bill and leave... The spruiker tells us - the Rhodes casino owned by Israelis... They pay their their countrymen to fly in... Off course they leave their assets behind in the casino... These two victims were looking for seed numbers for an evening of "rouletta"...


All of this inside the fortifications of the old town... Fortifications so sound that 7000 Knights of St John of Jerusalem held off 200,000 troops of the Ottoman Empire for 6 months.... Fortifications well preserved...

A 4:30 rise.. Who was the idiot that decided to fly to Santorini at such an absurd hour... It will be nice to catch up with John and Merie..

 

A day in Rhodes

Symi may not be magical... For us it came as close to that status as any destination could.... We leave with a touch of sadness on the 6:30 slow boat to Rhodes...












Still blearied eyed... Still without our early morning coffee... The ferry which rested it's weary bones in Symi overnight is practically bankrupt of human cargo... It's cavernous vehicle decks empty save for a lone motor cycle...




We share the passenger salon with three others... penguin number one orders coffees while penguin number two tries to encourage his being to accept that it is morning and that it really does need to shake off its slumber.... He comes to life with a pleasant surprise... Sometimes in life you meet people that you know are genuinely nice individuals... How do you recognise their inherent goodness... It is something to do with the way their soul radiates beyond the barriers of the body... One of the young waiters at Cafe Aris in Symi had a soul that had this ability to radiate... So why have I deviated to talk about this young Albanian waiter toiling away on a Greek Island... Because Penguin number one returns with her coffee in her hand.. No coffee for me .... A hand touches my shoulder from behind... A coffee appears in front of me... The Albanian waiter is having his once a fortnight day off and is heading to Rhodes for the day ... He has intercepted penguin number one... Taken the coffee and proceeded to serve me with a grin... It was a touching gesture...

The tourist season has begun... The port of Rhodes is unrecognisable from the one we left a week ago... Drop the bags at cava d'oro... Stroll the old town ... Starving... The orange bar looks ok .... The Greek woman tells Bernie... She lives in Sydney for 10 years.. Came back for a holiday... Never returned..


Watch the cobbled streets of the old walled town transform in the half hour before 9:00... The empty shuttered cobbled streets become centres of commercial endeavour... Street after Street...lane after lane... Hole in the wall after hole in the wall... This is how you preserve the largest medieval town in europe... Turn it into a huge continuous Sunday market.. Support the market with pensions.. Restraurants... Cafes... The medieval hospital turned into an archelogical museum... the ruins of churches and fortifications abundant... Wander and wander... Lane after lane... Be accosted by spruikers... Coffee... Tea... Beer... Wine....

























We emerge from the old town ... A train tour of Rhodes... The new Town.... The acropolis... Past the Roman stadium... The beaches... The colours amazing... The sea blue... Blue... Dark blue... Light Blue... Blue... 125000 people.... Tourists... tourists... tourists and a few more tourists... The beaches still not full... The season has just begun says the café owner... First day open he says... We sense our timing is good...













 







A post siesta stroll into the centre of the old town ... That cafe looks ok for a drink... Wrong.... wrong... Wrong.... Cafe Moscow.... Looks good from a distance... Up close... Dirty... Cats... Birds... Expensive... These are apprentice for the Russian Mafia.... We escape...








Back to the entrance gate... restaurant clean ... Greek food... Fantastic... Butter beans... Gyros... Stiffado... Fantastic...fantastic...







Penguin number one loses control... she joins the spruiker... Singled handed she attracts in 12 customers... I offer your wife a contract for next year says the spruiker... She is rewarded with an apricot apperitife... She is engaged by the German, Austrian, Dutch and Danish customers she has shanghai'ed...where are you from... Where are you going... So far ... So far....





Pay the man Laurie... Penguin number one is assisted home by penguin number two...


The winner of the Symi "name the tourist" competition has been announced... The judges had great difficulty but come down on the side of the entry submitted by the Royal Family... Their entry.. "Miss best not to comment" was considered to embody all the aspects of good taste and decorum that could be expected of a family with such impeccable credentials...

Further to the subject of the Symi "name the tourist" competition while we are no closer to the true identity of Miss best not to comment I am now confident that she is in fact a stallholder from central square of old Rhodes Town on a day off in Symi ... This must be case since those that remain on duty in the square bear exactly the same physical appearance and are inclined to an identical form of dressing...