Bright arrives at 10:00... Her driver..Like her... a youngster from the Chinese regions...like her drawn to Shanghai to mine the expanses of China's economic renewal...his ability to compete for road space with his country men admirable...his driving practices...less admirable...as we approach the water town on the freeway at 120kph he selects angel gear while encouraging the van to negotiate the ever narrowing and twisting exit ramp towards the town...his practice we endowed at least one of his passengers with a sense of considerable unease.
Do you have any siblings Bright....yes.. Two brothers..where are they...it is a sad story...like the child of Jackie Chan they found their way to jail through drugs....a few tears emerge...mother and father very upset...both have had stokes.. Her mother less severe.. she has to be strong for them she says...visits often.. Sends money home....they live in a small city she says...one million people... Penguin number two uncharitable as ever....is this a play for a significant tip.. He decides not.. Just someone doing her best in difficult circumstances...
The van progresses along the toll roads towards watertown....an Audi 8l....bmw740l...long wheel base Mercedes...all gleaming black.. All vieing with each other to announce the new found wealth of their owners to the less well to do car owners of Shanghai.... They bound along changing lanes at will as they pass everyone in sight.... A motor bike... A motor bike on the freeway... Bright is amazed...she turns to us.... he will be in trouble if a policeman comes.....the elevated road are for cars...
Into watertown.......you stand by the Statue of the local doctor she says.. I get the tickets....an experienced guide....clean toilets are the first stop....are you happy with the toilets she says..
Lunch in one of Chinese eating establishments that overlook the canals...you try local Bright says.....we agree....she shows her experienced....the dishes she selects seem westernised to the antipodean penguins...Chinese cabbage...chinese fried rice...chicken strips...green tea...really very good....time to head home.
This is just 1:30 yet the toll roads are already busy...what will the elevated roads of central Shanghai be like....we soon have ample time to observe...slow..slow..every driver in every car..in every truck..in every van explores potential progress in each of the four lanes....lots of indicators...very few horns...very few external signs of frustration.....progress is constant but slow..slow...slow...the crowded road has reduced vehicles of social status to a common denominator....
Bright is both guide and entrepreneur....you want to go on the night cruise....it going to rain..you need VIP section....VIP section under cover....hard to get tickets she says ...I can get tickets....hard to get to wharf...peak hour she says....I make you a special offer....I pick you up with the driver at 6:00pm...VIP area....special price because you are my friends...500 Yuan for two she says...you know internet...you know price...you know this is good price.....the penguins agree...not a great price but Ok....the side trip she had negotiated independent of the travel company might get her home more often.....she speaks in rapid Chinese to the driver....he also thinks that a bit of moonlighting would be worth the effort...
By the time the negotiations are finished we are approaching the hotel...we understand how Melbourne visitors feel when they first experience turning right from the left lane ... In Shanghai you execute a U turn at traffic lights from the centre lane....it works amazingly well...
We Nana nap..we rise...it is bucketing down....VIP seats or not we are not venturing out in that .... Phone Bright...ok...a little disappointed but not shattered...offer to pay for the cancelled extra curricular trip...she refuses....
You fill out my appraisal form...yes leave it and I will send it in...no I help you fill it out...she objects when, in the interests of making the appraisal seem legitimate I mark one of the questions as good rather than very good....no... No.. She says ...this is important she says...I oblige... We are not finished yet....this is just the tour company's appraisal form....she is more interested in her trip advisor ranking....you have a trip advisor account..yes..you give me a good review...yes...your wife have a trip advisor account..no..a look of disappointment...you get her an account...more reviews are better...ok says penguin number two.... She is offered a tip ..one for the driver..something extra to compensate her for the aborted night tour.. She accepts with just a slight sign of reluctance... The penguins on balance think she is genuine, competent and a little scarred by her familial experiences... She is bid farewell... She is to be recommended to others...trip advisor will look kindly upon her.
We have enjoyed Shanghai...
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